Last week, the most notable week in fashion took place in New York: the unveiling of the new collections of the world’s most influential designers. I decided to recap my favorite designers that showed at the 2010 Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.
Oscar de la Renta– In his collection, it was all about soft floral print. 3D peonies in pinks layered on a prim jacket, leaflike trims on a bustier dress, tactile laser-cut buds on a leather skirt. More subtle touches surfaced in the petal-like ruffles and the palette, a mix of pretty reds, bright greens, blushes and neutrals. To avoid overkill, de la Renta contrasted the fun florals with a graphic motif on a jacket-skirt combo.
Ralph Lauren– His inspiration came from early Native American wear and Pilgrim-inspired accessories: maple fringe, pioneer lace, conch belts and big, sensible hobo bags in leather and Navajo blanket wool. Lauren definitely wanted to ensure that the collection did not look costume-y and used hair and make-up to accent the model’s looks throughout the whole show. Lauren made the point with his first model, Anna. Her blonde hair swinging in time with the extra-long fringe of her white leather jacket was worn over frothy blouse and shorts. It made for a chic, sexy look. This motif — some form of fringe, whether on jacket, coat or scarf, flying freely over mostly white underpinnings — carried through much of the show. Deft pairings of utilitarian leathers and suedes with laces and embroideries provided a fresh take on masculine-feminine counterpoint.
Marc Jacobs– (One of my favorite designers) His entire look was infused with pieces inspired by Studio 54 and an Italian family. Lots of deep reds, browns, and golds were present in his show. Jacobs played to the flamboyant side of his favorite decade. Sunset palette and endless prints, giant flower appendages, pants (both long and hot), shiny pastels, and stiffened belted coats were ever-present throughout the show.
Francisco Costa for Calvin Klein– Clean, classic, and modern. The show opened with a halter dress in ecru washed silk. Cut high and precise around the neck, deep and low under the arm, it fell just above the ankle in a fluid line, the only embellishment a thin drawstring around the waist. He chose amazing fabrics — washed and double-faced silks so smooth and rich they brought to mind fondant — and kept to a basic palette of ivory, black, blue and red. There was as much softness as there was structure. Two short, fluttery silk dresses, vertically pleated down the front with a blouson waist, were borderline sweet, while two boxy shifts — one red, one indigo —were precision cut from thick washed silk that seemed to be suspended around the body. The geometry was where Costa indulged his architectural tastes, with decorative folds and crisp layers tempered by approachable shapes.